How To Change A Tire Instructions

Getting a flat tyre is a frustrating but common experience for any driver. Knowing how to change a tyre yourself can save you a long wait for breakdown assistance and get you back on your journey safely. This guide provides clear, practical, and safe how to change a tire instructions suitable for most cars. Following these steps will give you the confidence to handle this common roadside issue without needing to call for help, turning a potential day-ruiner into a manageable task.

Fast Answer

Find a safe spot: Move the car to a flat, solid surface away from traffic.
Prepare the car: Apply the handbrake, put it in gear, and turn on hazard lights.
Loosen the nuts: Before lifting, use the wheel brace to loosen the nuts on the flat tyre.
Jack it up: Position the jack correctly and raise the car until the tyre is off the ground.
Swap the tyres: Remove the flat tyre, mount the spare, and hand-tighten the nuts.
Lower and tighten: Lower the car, then fully tighten the nuts in a star pattern.

20-40 minutes Time needed

Beginner Difficulty

Vehicle Stability Watch out for

Before You Start

Preparation is the most critical part of changing a tyre safely. Rushing this stage can lead to accidents or make the job much harder. Before you even touch a wheel nut, take a few minutes to secure your vehicle and gather the necessary equipment. Most of the tools you need should already be in your car's boot, often stored in a compartment under the floor.

What You Need

Your car's owner's manual: This is essential for locating the correct jacking points and finding the manufacturer's specific advice.
A fully inflated spare tyre: Check its condition and pressure. Many modern cars have a smaller 'space-saver' spare with speed and distance limitations.
A car jack: This is used to lift the vehicle. The one supplied with your car is usually a 'scissor' type.
A wheel brace (or lug wrench): This tool is used for loosening and tightening the wheel nuts.
The locking wheel nut key: Many cars have one anti-theft nut on each wheel which requires a special key to remove. This is usually kept with the car's tools or in the glove box.
Wheel chocks: These are wedges placed against the wheels to prevent the car from rolling. A sturdy piece of wood or a large rock can work in an emergency.
A high-visibility jacket: For your own safety, especially if you are on the side of a busy road.
A hazard warning triangle: To alert other drivers to your stationary vehicle.
A pair of gloves: Wheels and tyres are dirty, and gloves will protect your hands.
A small, flat piece of wood: This can provide a stable base for the jack if you are on soft ground like a grass verge.

Check first: Ensure you are on a completely flat and solid surface. Attempting to change a tyre on a slope or soft ground is extremely dangerous as the car could slip off the jack. If you cannot find a safe spot, it is better to call for professional assistance.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Once you are in a safe location and have all your tools ready, you can begin the process. Work slowly and methodically. These how to change a tire instructions are designed to be followed in order for maximum safety and efficiency.

Prepare the Vehicle and Secure the Area

Your first priority is making sure the car is completely stationary and visible to other road users. This step prevents the car from moving while you are working on it.

First, turn on your hazard warning lights. Apply the handbrake firmly. If you have an automatic car, put it in 'Park' (P). For a manual car, put it in first gear or reverse. It's a good idea to ensure all passengers have exited the vehicle and are waiting in a safe place, far away from the road.

Place your warning triangle on the road at least 45 metres (147 feet) behind your car to give oncoming traffic plenty of notice. Finally, place wheel chocks on the opposite corner to the tyre you are changing. For example, if you are changing the front left tyre, chock the rear right wheel on both sides (front and back of the tyre).

Loosen the Wheel Nuts (Before Lifting)

This is a crucial step that many people get wrong. You must loosen the nuts while the wheel is still on the ground. The weight of the car prevents the wheel from spinning as you apply force to the nuts.

If your wheel has a plastic trim or hubcap, you may need to pry it off first; your owner's manual or the end of the wheel brace might help with this. Identify the locking wheel nut and fit the special key to it. Then, using the wheel brace, turn each nut approximately one-quarter to one-half turn anti-clockwise. Do not remove them completely yet. They may be very tight, so you might need to use your body weight by pushing down on the brace with your foot. Never 'jump' on the brace, as it could slip and cause injury.

Tip: Remember the phrase "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey." You will be turning the wheel brace to the left (anti-clockwise) to loosen the nuts.

Position the Jack and Lift the Vehicle

Now it's time to lift the car. Consult your owner's manual to find the correct jacking point for the wheel you are changing. This is a reinforced part of the car's frame designed to take the weight. Using the wrong spot can damage your car or cause the jack to fail.

Slide the jack under the car and position it directly beneath the specified jacking point. If you are on soft ground, place your piece of wood under the jack to create a stable base. Begin to turn the jack handle clockwise to raise it. Make sure the head of the jack is making good, flat contact with the car's frame. Continue to raise the car slowly and smoothly until the flat tyre is 2-3 inches clear of the ground. This provides enough space to remove the flat and fit the fully inflated spare.

Safety Warning: At no point should any part of your body go underneath the vehicle while it is supported only by the jack. Jacks can fail, and the consequences can be fatal.

Remove the Wheel Nuts and Flat Tyre

With the car safely in the air, you can now fully remove the wheel nuts that you loosened earlier. Unscrew them the rest of the way by hand. It's a good idea to place them in a safe spot, like a hubcap or your pocket, so you don't lose them.

Once all the nuts are off, grip the tyre on both sides and pull it directly towards you, off the threaded wheel studs. Wheels can be surprisingly heavy and awkward, so get a firm grip and be prepared for the weight. If the wheel is stuck on the hub due to rust, you may need to give it a firm tap on the rubber part of the tyre with the palm of your hand or a rubber mallet if you have one.

Mount the Spare Tyre

Take your spare tyre and lift it into position. This can be the trickiest part of the job. You need to align the holes in the spare wheel with the threaded studs on the car's hub. A good technique is to rest the bottom of the tyre on your foot to support its weight while you use your hands to line up the holes.

Once aligned, push the wheel firmly onto the hub until it sits flush against the brake disc or drum assembly. It should feel secure and not wobble. Take care not to trap your fingers between the wheel and the hub.

Tip: To help with alignment, line up one of the top holes with a stud first, then pivot the wheel slightly to get the others to line up.

Replace and Hand-Tighten the Wheel Nuts

With the spare wheel in place, you can now refit the wheel nuts. Put them back on the studs and tighten them by hand in a clockwise direction. Tighten them as much as you can using only your fingers. This is important to ensure the wheel is seated correctly and evenly before you apply the full force of the wheel brace.

Once they are all finger-tight, give them a quick turn with the wheel brace (perhaps a half-turn each) to snug them up, but do not apply full force yet. The wheel may still spin slightly in the air, which is normal.

Lower the Vehicle and Perform Final Tightening

Carefully and slowly, turn the jack handle anti-clockwise to lower the car. Stop when the spare tyre is making firm contact with the ground but before the car's full weight is on it. This will stop the wheel from spinning and allow you to tighten the nuts properly.

Now, use the wheel brace to fully tighten the nuts. It is vital to do this in a star or criss-cross pattern. For a five-nut wheel, tighten one nut, then the one opposite, then move across the wheel to the next, and so on, as if you were drawing a star. This ensures the wheel is pulled onto the hub evenly and securely. Tighten the nuts as much as you can using the brace, applying firm, steady pressure.

Tip: Use the star pattern: if you number the nuts 1 to 5 clockwise, tighten them in the order 1-3-5-2-4. For a four-nut wheel, simply tighten opposites (1-3-2-4).

Final Checks and Tidying Up

Lower the car completely to the ground and remove the jack from underneath. With the car's full weight on the wheel, give each nut one final check with the wheel brace to ensure they are as tight as possible. If you have a torque wrench, now is the time to use it to tighten them to the manufacturer's specification (found in your owner's manual).

Gather all your tools, including the jack, wheel brace, and the flat tyre. Secure them safely in your car's boot. Don't forget to retrieve your warning triangle and wheel chocks. If you used a hubcap, you can refit it now. Your how to change a tire instructions are now complete, but you have one more important job to do.

Most spare tyres, especially space-savers, are not designed for long-term use. They often have speed restrictions (e.g., max 50 mph) and are only meant to get you to the nearest garage. Drive cautiously and make it a priority to get your original tyre repaired or replaced as soon as possible.

Quick Reference

Situation	Use this	Why
Wheel nuts are too tight to loosen	A long-handled wheel brace or your body weight	Provides greater leverage than using arm strength alone.
The wheel is stuck to the car hub	A few firm kicks to the tyre sidewall	The vibration can break the corrosion seal holding it in place.
Unsure of where to place the jack	Your car's owner's manual	It shows the exact reinforced points designed to safely lift the car.
Tightening the nuts on the spare	A star or criss-cross pattern	Ensures the wheel is mounted flat and evenly against the hub.

Common Problems When You Change a Tyre

Even with the best how to change a tire instructions, you can run into issues. Here are some common hurdles and how to overcome them.

Over-tightened or Seized Wheel Nuts: Garages often use pneumatic air guns that can tighten nuts far more than necessary. If you can't shift them, try to find a longer wheel brace for more leverage. You can also try carefully applying your body weight by standing on the end of the brace, holding onto the car for stability. Be cautious as it can slip. A spray of penetrating oil (like WD-40) can help if you have some, but you'll need to let it soak in.
Missing Locking Wheel Nut Key: This is a show-stopper. The key is unique to your car. Double-check the glove box, side door pockets, and the tool kit in the boot. If it's truly lost, your only options are to call for breakdown assistance or a mobile tyre fitter who may have specialist tools to remove it.
The Wheel is Rusted onto the Hub: Sometimes, corrosion effectively glues the wheel to the car. After removing all the nuts, if the wheel won't budge, try hitting the rubber part of the tyre firmly with the heel of your shoe or a rubber mallet on alternating sides to shock it loose. Never hit the metal wheel itself as you could damage it.
The Spare Tyre is Flat: It's a horrible discovery, but it happens. This is why it's crucial to check your spare's pressure regularly. If you find your spare is also flat, your only option is to call for professional help.

Advanced Tips for Changing a Tyre

Once you've mastered the basics, these tips can make the process smoother, safer, and better for your car.

Invest in a Torque Wrench: A torque wrench is a tool that allows you to tighten nuts to a precise specification. Overtightening can damage the wheel studs, while undertightening is dangerous. Your owner's manual will state the correct torque setting (e.g., 120 Newton-metres). After changing a tyre, using a torque wrench is the only way to be 100% sure the nuts are correctly tightened.
Upgrade Your Jack: The scissor jack supplied with most cars is functional but can be slow and feel unstable. A hydraulic 'trolley' jack is far more stable, easier to use, and quicker to lift the car. While not practical to carry in the car, it's a great tool to have at home for maintenance.
Practice at Home: The worst time to learn how to change a tyre is in the dark, on the side of a motorway, in the pouring rain. Spend 30 minutes on a sunny afternoon on your driveway going through the motions. This practice will make the real thing far less stressful.
Check and Rotate Your Tyres: Regularly check the pressure and tread depth of all five tyres, including the spare. Rotating your tyres (swapping their positions on the car according to a set pattern) helps them wear more evenly, extending their life.

How To Change A Tire Instructions FAQ

How fast and how far can I drive on a space-saver spare tyre?

Most space-saver tyres have a speed limit of 50 mph (80 km/h) and are designed for a maximum distance of around 50 miles. The exact limits will be written on the tyre's sidewall. They are a temporary solution to get you to a garage, not for continuing your long-distance journey.

How tight should the wheel nuts be?

The correct answer is "to the manufacturer's specified torque." Without a torque wrench, the best guide is to tighten them with a standard wheel brace as much as you can using your own strength without straining or using extensions. A good rule of thumb is that if you have to jump on the brace, it's too tight. It's always a good idea to have a garage check the torque for you after a roadside change.

Do I need to get my main tyre repaired or replaced?

Yes, immediately. If it was a simple puncture in the main tread of the tyre, it can often be repaired cheaply. However, if the damage is to the sidewall or the tyre was driven on while flat for too long, it will need to be replaced. A tyre professional will give you the best advice.

Can I use my car's jack for other maintenance?

Absolutely not. The scissor jack provided with your vehicle is designed for emergency, roadside tyre changes only. It is not stable enough for any work that involves getting under the car. For home maintenance like oil changes, you must use proper axle stands to support the vehicle's weight.

Final Checklist for Changing a Tyre

Before you drive away, run through this final mental checklist to ensure everything is safe and secure.

All wheel nuts on the spare have been tightened in a star pattern.
You have given each nut a final tightness check with the car's full weight on the ground.
The flat tyre, jack, wheel brace, and all other tools are securely stored back in the boot.
The warning triangle and wheel chocks have been collected and stored away.
You have checked the spare tyre's sidewall for its speed and distance limitations.
You have a plan to visit a garage as soon as possible to get your original tyre sorted.